Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Zahtila - 187

In the past, I have mentioned a great admiration for women winemakers. I have now started an investigation into women-owned wineries. I am very intrigued with the trials and tribulations facing women in what is generally considered a male-dominated industry. For this visit, fate has brought me to visit Zahtila Vineyards, located just a hundred yards north of the Silverado Trail and Calistoga's Lincoln Road juncture, to chat with Laura Zahtila personally.

Don't drive too quickly on the main road - the entrance to Zahtila is just on the right and almost hidden by large trees and brush. It would be very easy to drive right past it and head onwards toward Hidden Valley. After parking, I was immediately and warmly greeted by Zoe, the winery dog, who does her duty well as goodwill ambassador. She will guide you up the walkway, past the rose-covered house that acts as the office and administration building, towards the back of the property where the tasting room lies.

Laura is relatively new to the wine world. Having done well during the dot-com boom, a passion for wine brought her to Napa when she purchased her first vineyard from the Traulsen family in 1999. This had been a family endeavor with her husband, but they soon realized the passion was all hers and parted ways.

Laura now has complete control and the business is hers and hers alone and she is learning the business from the ground up. While not having any formal winemaking  training, she relies on a consulting winemaker for much of the technical aspects but ultimately makes all of the blending decisions. The wine has her name so while the buck stops here, she has every reason to be exceptionally proud of what she has created in such a short time! Now moving beyond her own Calistoga vineayrd, she has started contracting for additional grapes and this year released her first Chardonnay.

2004 Napa Valley Chardonnay - From Bocannon fruit, this was a decidedly good first attempt. Clean, crisp grapefruit core with bright citrus pineapple. Very bright, clean entry showing green apple and carved, distinct fruit. $18.00

2003 Zinfandel, Dry Creek - Red berry black fruit with dusty floral tones. Brambleberry dominates the rich mouth entry and shows a hefty chocolate mid-palate. Clean and round, the full flavors produce a distinctive, spicy finish $20.00

2002 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - From Conn Valley fruit, 30% new American oak. Rich ruby red to the edge produces earthy, erotic, smoky bouquet with hints of sage and dried herbs. Medium-bodied, the expansive crisp fruit shows heightened acidity and perfectly integrated tannins. The palate is layered with earth and dark fruit and shows touch of smoke on the finish. $33.00

2002 Beckstoffer Cabernet Sauvignon - From Rutherford fruit, this dark magenta wine produces intense, rich plum aromas with layers of spice, black currant, and a touch of vanilla. Hedonistic in the mouth, the flavors are smooth and complex, a bit sweet on the entry, but rounding out to show opulence and immense quality. Needs to cost more... $48.00

Zahtila Vineyards ~ 2250 Lake County Highway ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~94515 ~ 707-942-9251
$5.00 tasting

Galleron - 168

Old timer, die-hard wine lovers know the Galleron name as an historical icon dating back to pre-prohibition days. The Galleron family has a long and deep-rooted (no pun intended) history in the Napa Valley as quality grape growers. Virgile and Angele have bootlegging stories around the Prohibition era but it is was their sons, Paul and Virgil Galleron, whose grape growing business blossomed after World War II with the brothers' entire first harvest being purchased by Gallo.

Today, it is Gary Galleron, son of Paul, who has taken the reigns of the family's agricultural business and turned it into a world class winery. While no formal tasting room or facilities are available for visitors, I had the pleasure of meeting Paula Galleron, Gary's sister, at a Copia tasting. It is Paula who runs the office and keeps the business cogs well-oiled while Gary makes the wine. As a winery that produces only a thousand-or-so cases of premium juice each year, it is wine that to acquire, will have to be sought after and researched. But is well worth the effort.

2001 Rockpile Zinfandel - The Rockpile vineyard lies above Lake Sonoma. Having some mountain fruit quality, there is a dark, black raspberry aroma that seems to just grasp at its spicy, clove partner. The mouth entry is deep and rich, with supple tannins and a tease of sweetness. The spicy finish is refined and complex. $32.00

2001 Jaeger Merlot - I have had a deep and abiding admiration for what the Jaeger brothers have been growing for over twenty years. In this wine, Gary has taken the Jaeger's grapes and created a wine that is velvety soft with a subtle coffee scent along with a core of dark berry. The flavors are deep and balanced, showing spicy dark berries and silky, balanced tannins. $32.00

2001 Morisoli Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon - Over-the-top bouquet of sexy black fruit, vanilla and spice, and a tease of cocoa. The initial taste is ballsy and enthralling, displaying erotic flavors of blackberry, black plum, and black currant. So much is going on in the smooth tannins and well-integrated flavors. Would love to sit on one of these for a decade or so... $100.00

Galleron Signature Wines ~ P.O. Box 2 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-265-6552

Tres Sabores - 162

Julie Johnson is an incredibly busy woman these days. She has recently been named President of Zinfandel Advocates & Producers (known as ZAP by wine geeks). That in itself is a tremendous understaking, except to consider that she is also CFO, CEO, and now winemaker for her own label, Tres Sabores, which translates to mean 'three tastes."

Diminutive in stature, and quick and agile like a lean fox, Julie gets excited and speaks quickly when talking about her winery. She started the winery as a bit of experiment. The Three Tastes concept was such that she had this lovely organic vineyard in one of the most sought-after appellations, Rutherford. In a bold and innovative move, she hired three different winemakers to produce wines from her single vineyard.

The initial plan was a six-year project; she wanted the three winemakers to produce the wine for six vintages. Instead, she had four winemakers; Rudy Zudeima who did produce a total of six labels, Karen Culler who made five different vintages, and Ken Bernards and Ashley Heisey both producing three vintages each. Now, having made an astonishing reputation with the help of these mythic winemakers, Julie is taking the reigns herself is making the wine.

2003 Rutherford Zinfandel - A blend of three different cuvees, the warm, red fruit aromas provided a soft, supple entry that displays elegantly integrated tannins. Dark fruit dominates the mouth with a core of spice that shows some of the classic Rutherford dust. Only 500 cases made. $30.00

2002 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon - This is the second year that Julie herself has made this wine. Dark purple in color, the bouquet is mostly dark cassis with layers of dusty herbs. The mouth entry is complex showing dark chocolate and blackberry with a chiseled finish. Not yet released, price unknown.

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For contacting: P.O. Box 238 ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94574
Actual location, by appointment only: 1620 S. Whitehall Lane ~ St. Helena ~ Ca ~ 94574 ~ 707-967-8027

Rutherford Hill - 159

The Napa valley is a valley which means that it is surrounded by hills, mountains, and peaks. It also means there are wineries in them thar hills and I think that despite the occasional car sickness that is experienced when traversing the dizzying roads, there is nothing I love more than going to mountain wineries. I had been looking forward to Rutherford Hill Winery because it lies on the same mountain as Auberge du Soleil. In a sense, it actually sits on top of the resort.
 

Rutherford Hill has many draws to to it, not the least of which is its picnic grounds. I'm a huge advocate of wineries that have picnic grounds accessible to customers and the view from this one doesn't get much better. I've been up a number of times and if the weather is cool and mild enough, be prepared to see wildlife of the Disney persuasion (think Bambi and Thumper).

The building itself is stately and greets you when you come through the gates as you have just ascended the sometimes single-lane, windy road. The tasting room is broken into two areas; the Current Release Tasting or the Reserve Tasting. For $10, a tour can be arranged and are apparently quite popular as I watched a number of customers waiting for one (although it surprised me that while they were waiting, they didn't bother to taste... perhaps afterwards).

2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay - Creamy aromas of white peach with a tease of lemon. Viscous, thick mouthfeel with tons of butter and oak on the finish. $17.50

2003 Rosé of Merlot - Fresh, young raspberry and cherry with a solid undercore of meringue. Easy tongue play showing bright carnation and jasmine underpinings. $15.00

2002 Syrah - Clove and dark plum dance in a somewhat steamy, hot playground. Tight entry blossoms a tad, but I wanted more. $28.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot - Dense, dark brambleberry lies atop dusty twigs. Medium bodied and mostly mineral in the beginning doesn't seem to go anywhere. $25.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - Black plum and black currant almost overwhelms. There is some definite chocolate in the mouth but the finish is thin and harsh. $32.00

2001 Episode - A Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend at $150 a bottle, I was extremely disappointed to taste a bottle that had obviously been open for several days. Port-like mouth entry and nothing but oxidized aromas. Charging $10.00 for a 1.5 ounce toast, make sure the bottle is fresh before plunking down the moolah.

2001 Port Zin - Red floral and red fruit with twigs in this zinfandel brandy-fortified offering. Unknown price.

Rutherford Hill Winery ~ 200 Rutherford Hill Road ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-963-1871

Rutherford Ranch/Round Hill Vineyards - 158

As one travels up the Silverado Trail, northbound from Napa to Calistoga, there is a single large turn off towards Lake Berryessa.  After rows and rows of vineyards, the intersection suddenly stands out as a span of open field is punctuated by a large collection of old, stately trees. The trees are the shading and elegant setting of Rutherford Ranch.

The estate has a a small creek running through it as well as a pond. A series of small buildings, which I believe are guest houses, are nestled amongst the trees. I did not get an opportunity to walk around and hope that the proprietors have made this idyllic space available to visitors and not simply relegated the enclave to office space. The day of my visit was just after a family wedding and any crew who could have answered questions was too inundated with other visitors.

The tasting room itself is contained within a stately, sprawling building. I was able to talk with one chap in the tasting room about the two separate labels. Many business decisions are made when second labels are created and I was curious about the differences between the Rutherford Ranch and Round Hill labels. Apparently the gist of the Round Hill entirely for a bulk retail market and not really poured in the tasting room. Although the day of my visit, the Round Hill Chardonnay was being poured as it had won a series of awards.

What is most impressive about the winery's operation is that in producing over 100,000 cases, the presentation of two labels and a public facility is not that which impacts consumers most. It is a private label business which includes the likes of Auberge du Soleil and a number of other prestigious restaurants. You may never know the next time you are dining in our favorite restaurant and are offered their own wine -- it very well could be a Rutherford Ranch wine!  A note on prices; their website does not currently list selling prices and I have misplaced the price sheet I took from the winery, but suffice to say that the average price is in the $10 to $20 range.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc, Rutherford Ranch - Tart grapefruit dominates. Crisp, acidic mouth entry shows pungent lemon grass with a chewy lemon peel finish.

2004 Round Hill Chardonnay - A hint of malo displays a bit defined cream and butter upon entry but finishes a bit crisp with textured lemon flavors.

2003 Rutherford Ranch Chardonnay - Rich lemon bouquet with thick buttery mouth entry.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Merlot - Mostly warm berry tones in the nose with a hint of metal funk. Smooth entry is a bit hot with a twiggy, earthy mid-palate and a sharp chocolate finish.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Zinfandel - 97% Zinfandel, 1.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1.5% 'Proprietary Blend' - Medium bodied offering with tons of black cherry and licorice aromas. Simple, easy mouth entry with a crisp, mocha finish.

2002 Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon - Tight, blackberry bouquet coupled with earth and oak. Blueberry flavors are somewhat flaccid.

2004 Rutherford Ranch Moscato - Clear straw color. Sweet orange blossom and yellow flowers in the nose. Clean flavors of ripe pear and apricot. Not syrupy or overly sweet but bright and engaging.

Rutherford Ranch/Round Hill Vineyards ~ 1680 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-778-0424

Raymond - 156

In the Napa valley, between Highway 29 and the Silverardo Trail, there are just a few access roads that connect to two main arteries which keep the life blood of America's most famous wine area flowing. For visitors to the Napa valley, it is exactly those wineries on the 29 and the Silverado Trail which see the majority of the business. But it is those little-travelled access roads which often house worthwhile investigation. Raymond Winery is just such a find.

Zinfandel Lane is one of the connecting roads and lies just south of the town of St. Helena. There are actually only two or three public wineries on this road, the rest being appointment-only. The surprise is that I had driven past Raymond dozens of times without realizing it was there, being so well hidden by shrubbery and plant life. Driving through a maze of vines from the entrance, the winery complex comes into view, reflecting a 1950s ranch house in its epoch, lying low to the ground. Despite the sense of entering fifty-year old time warp, the landscaping is open, vast, and inviting due to the predominance of colorful flowers.

The tasting room is similarly austere with a touch of non-tangible nostaligia. There is nothing specific in alluding to the age; perhaps it is merely the architecture. The tasting room is not overwhelmed with retail items and the pouring staff is extremely gracious and helpful. The big draw? The wines -- truly excellent quality juice at moderately affordable prices. At a production level of 300,000 cases, it is an impressive facility that is producing a LOT of wine worth tasting:

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Sauvignon Blanc - Golden bouquet of melon and tropical fruit. Very smooth, easy mouth feel with a touch of cream and no stridency. Crisp finish that keeps going, finishing with a heightened green apple flavor. $12.50

2003 Napa Valley Reserve Chardonnay - At a caseload production of almost 25,000 cases, this is a  pretty substantial amount of wine. Fresh fruit of pear, mango, and papaya aromas. The smooth, soft entry seems a bit flabby to me, but finishes with a bit more richness than anticipated. $18.00

1995 Merlot Reserve - Port-like dusty floral bouquet. Dark, integrated, toasty flavors of twigs and a faint finish of mint. Reasonable deal if drunk immediately. (On a special sell-off; $90 a case)

2001 Rutherford Reserve Merlot - Relatively small production of only 500 cases. 99% Merlot, 1% Cabernet. Classic Rutherford dust aromas that were slightly sweet with a touch of green pepper. Intense nose that continued into the mouth entry with dark red fruit and a long, balanced finish. $30.00

2001 St. Helena Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Rich dark red wine displaying dark spice and plum in the nose. Easy, smooth mouth entry of rich blackberry and refined spices in the complex finish. 13.8% alcohol! $45.00

2001 Rutherford Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - 99% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Merlot. Almost 1,000 cases. Hugh, spicy aromas that were surprisingly Syrah-like in blackness; dark fruit, blackberry liqueuer, and dark florals. Sweet entry exudes some dusty floral qualities. The wine smelled older and more developed than it tasted. Easy to drink now, but with a developed integration and supple mouthfeel that will only improve with age. $45.00

2000 Generations Cabernet Sauvignon - Dark spicy pepper and Moroccan spices with a touch of earth in its bouquet. Rich, dark flavors with some green bell pepper and mostly complex, dark currant, berry, and tobacco flavors. $65.00

Raymond Vineyard & Cellar ~ 849 Zinfandel Lane ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-525-2659

Frank Family Vineyards - 147

I've had a lot of friends asking me to head to Frank Family Vineyards for some time. One reason is that I am especially drawn to historical locations. In this case, while the Frank family themselves have only been in the wine industry since the early 1990s, the location and some of the remaining buildings date back to the early 1880s.

It is the front building that has been 'plaqued' as an historic landmark, having once been the Larkmead Winery (which now has me on an investigative journey to go and visit the new home of Larkmead as it seems the patriarch sold this estate in the 1950s).

During my visit, the historical building in the front was closed down. I was there on a weekend so I can only assume the building is used for winemaking in some fashion, but I did not get to peer inside and who knows - maybe it is just there for storage these days... There is a smaller, house-like structure behind the stone edifice which now acts as the hospitality suite and tasting room.

The entrance to the tasting is somewhat of an anteroom that acts as the location of the cash register as well as where some bubbly is tasted first. After a bit of sparkling, you wander through a hallway of some several thousand photographs of friends and family. The second tasting room lies in the back of the house and not only contains memorabilia of Rich Frank's former life as chairman of Walt Disney's musical division (this means there are gold records on the wall). The grounds are lovely to walk around and some picnic tables sitting behind the back building seem inviting as they were already half full.

2000 Champagne Reserve - Yep, they call it Champagne and not "sparkling wine." Four months on French oak and five years on yeast, finished with Remi cognac (that would actually be Carneros-based RMS Alembic that went out of business several years ago and sold off barrels of their product). Very smooth and nice with flavors of apple and hazelnut. Decent combination of sweetness and yeast. $55.00

NV Rouge - 100% Pinot Noir. Light almondine garnet colored. Slightly fishy aroma with bright cranberry flavors and a metallic finish. $27.75

2004 Chardonnay - They call it liquid creme brulee in a glass. At a 100% malo having spent two months in French oak, this wine has pretty thick banana aromas with some caramel and toffee. Viscous and vanilla-flavored, the wine was still tight and possibly suffering from bottle shock. $32.50

2003 Zinfandel - From Browns Valley. They call this the Velvet Hammer. (Seems they name all their wine). At 16% alcohol, this is a pretty heady wine showing strong black plum and blackberry aromas with a back-nose of chocolate. The mouth entry was relatively soft but explodes with black licorice. Spice and chocolate present themselves before the dark plummy finish. $34.95

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - An initial tease of green bell pepper subsided with a swirl and produced more pronounced mushroom and dark fruit. Distinct cedar taste on first taste which evolved to produce dusty cocoa and a hint of eucalyptus. The tannins were balanced and even and the core finish was meaty blackberry. $39.75

2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - From Rutherford. Dark, inky purple wine that seemed mostly comprised of chocolate. Huge, brawny tannins brightened to chewy cranberry flavors. Needs time. $65.00

Frank Family Vineyards ~ 1091 Larkmead Lane ~ Calistoga ~ CA ~ 94515 ~ 800-574-9463

William Harrison - 131

Visiting William Harrison winery proved to be another one of those "Duh!" moments. Several months ago, in discussing the rarity of 100% Cabernet Francs of quality, a mere stranger offered me a well-cellared 1997 William Harrison Cabernet Franc. I was astounded at its depth of fruit and flavor (okay, I was also astounded that someone had I had met in passing would just give away a bottle of wine, too!)

The two-story building sits innocuously behind some of the winery's vineyards, just off the Silverado Trail. Seemingly low-slung and unassuming compared to the palaces just up trail, the interior boasts considerable history in both a re-Prohibition bottle collection as well as a rather large, figuratively staged taxidermied bear.

Antonio Perelli-Minetti was the progenitor and during its heyday in 1970s, under the moniker of A. Perelli-Minetti & Sons, produced over a million cases of wine. Antonio's daughter Conchita had a son named William Harrison, whose name is now emblazened upon sign and label.

The bear, by the way, was caught by Harrison on a hunting trip several years ago. I'm not sure what I am more enamored by; the stuffed bear or this historical photographs throughout the tasting room... Then again, the bottle collection is pretty amazing and surprised me by sitting out in the open (thinking of Coppola's winery where they were carefully set behind glass). There is astonishing history to be found here and a laid-back, easy-going style in telling the stories and welcoming the guests.

2003 Estate Chardonnay - Complex layers of fresh fig, Limoncello, and sweet cream show immediately. The fig is detectable in the initial taste but subsides to demonstrate stone fruit with a light floral finish. I'm not a Chardonnay fan, but I would drink this. $32.00

2001 Estate Cabernet Franc - A wine I would be happy smelling for hours... Layers of dark cherry and ripe cassis toy with integrated spice and a hint of black pepper. The mouthfeel is silky and developed with even tannins. Mocha shows a bit in the mid-palate and blossoms to display touches of blueberry. Hands-down my favorite CabFranc in the industry. $35.00

2001 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - Hugely opulent offering that rivals Cabs at twice the price. Rich dark berry and cherry with hints of tobacco and leather aromas. The mouthfeel is clean and precise, showing dark, roasted red berries combined with a hint of sweet black licorice and a tease of vanilla. Long finish displays craftsmanship and quality. $39.00

2001 Estate Rutherford Red - A blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 12% Cabernet Franc. Odd that the single varietals prove to be more engaging than their blend. The dark, rustic fruit found in the Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc are treated to a bit too much earth and show mineral qualities that are out of balance. Considering the quality in the previous offerings, this may have simply been an off bottle. $45.00

William Harrison ~ 1443 Silverado Trail ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 707-963-8310

Freemark Abbey - 111

Freemark Abbey is another winery that holds special memories for me. During those early years of driving up to Napa from Southern California, this was one of the standard stops for their much-loved dessert wine and I bought a beloved grape-festooned necklace that I still pull out on special occasions -- but I get ahead of myself.

I have categorized the Abbey under two appellations; St. Helena, because their physical location is within the St. Helena appellation, lying just north of the town in almost the last stretch of public wineries before the town of Calistoga, and Rutherford, for they are renown for their single-vineyard Rutherford Dust Cabernet Sauvignon. The other tremendously special aspect of Freemark Abbey is historical -- it was the first winery in California to be built and operated by a woman, Josephine Marlin Tychson (then known as Tychson Cellars).

Contrary to popular belief, the "Abbey" was never a religious order.  it is often misconstrued as such because of the nearby CIA, which was a Franciscan monastery. No, "Abbey" was the nickname Albert Ahern, one of the three business who purchased the estate in 1939. Today, the historic building area is under some renovation. Adjacent to the offices and tasting room is a lovely, newly-landscaped oak-shaded courtyard which is available to rent for private functions. It is also well worth a stroll through, just to admire its beauty.

The tasting room is large and warmly decorated with a seating area by a large fireplace. This form of hospitality is unusual as many tasting rooms purposefully keep guests from staying; seats promote lengthy stays and voluminous drinking. By having such a prominent display of welcome shows trust and comfort with guests that is refreshing. Oh yeah, and the folks working behind the bar are pretty nice, too.

2003 Napa Valley Viognier - Sweet tangerine and honeysuckle on the nose. Diving crisp entry that expands to show white stone fruit with a bright mid-palate and a finish that is partly tangy and partly creamy. $25.00

2003 Napa Valley Chardonnay - Rich, full-bodied aromas of elegant apple and pear with a hint of caramel. Vibrant mouthfeel that invokes both green apple and citrus. Shockingly rich considering this wine saw no malo. Lovely. $19.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet - 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Expansive aromas of black cherry, nutmeg, and clove. Fruit-forward entry showing black cassis. A bit bright, showing youth, but depth that anticipates age-ability. $35.00

2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sycamore Vineyards - From the Bell Oaks Rutherford area. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. Slightly murky, dark red in color. Hints of green bell pepper subside to show dark cocoa and hints of earth. Chocolate covered cherry and vanilla fill the mouth that shows balance and a clean, distinct finish. $55.00

2002 Napa Valley Syrah - 82% Syrah, 14% Petite Sirah, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1% Merlot. Clear, garnet color. Dark plum and black pepper bouquet. Smooth, medium-bodied wine that shows well-integrated dark fruit and layered vanilla. Long, medium spiced finish shows an easy-drinking, not too over-the-top Syrah. $28.00

2000 Edelwein Gold - This is the dessert wine I am so rapturous about. It is one of the few naturally-produced Botrytis-affected wines produced in California. It is a late-harvest Riesling that does not get made every year. In fact, Freemark Abbey has only made this wine ten times in its history. The wine is a stunning golden yellow color which produces a bouquet of sweet honeysuckle with a tease towards ripe citrus. The mouth entry is silky that shows peach and honey and a lingering finish that is sweet but not saccharine

Freemark Abbey ~ Highway 29 at Lodi Lane ~ P.O. Box 410 ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 800-963-9698

Peju Province - 101

Peju Province has an impressive reputation for quality wines. Theirs was a winery I was looking forward to visiting and my visit was far from a disappointment. They have received much in the way of accolades for their product and the visit itself was great fun; but it didn't start out that way...

When I initially arrived at Peju, I was obviously taken with the landscaping and architecture. The grounds are meticulously kept and one cannot help but be drawn to the tower as a building which benchmarks the property. I was drawn to the number of stunning flowers that grace the entrance way and only discovered later that Anthony Peju was in the nursery business before he was in the wine business. The flowers, however, are only a small part of the grand visual scheme..

The gardens are also the home for a number of sculptures by Welton Ritz. I never cease to be impressed with wineries who incorporate art and the grace of Ritz's figurative work adds sublimity and intrigue to the space.

When I walked into the tasting area, I admired the vaulted ceilings and light that was brought into an otherwise narrow and crowded space. I was not astonished at the crowd that was gathered at the small tasting bar at the end of the room. I was, however, slightly put off by a music stand being used as a sign-holder. In a Disneyland-like sensibility of crowd control, it politely asked guests to wait there for the next available host. An occasional passing worker would acknowledge our patience by telling us it was only a few minutes more. "How could that be?" I pondered... the folks I could easily see at the bar seemed quite settled in for the duration. I seriously thought about leaving, but am glad I did not.

For just at the point when my patience was wearing thin, I and the line that had formed behind me was beckoned to a side door that I had not seen. Like Charlie walking into the majestic Chocolate Factory for the first time, we were lead into what I now realize was the belly of the tower. Two majestic dark wood tasting bars flank the room centered with a stunning leaded-glass window, bestowing shafts of color on the guests. Now I understood the reason for the wait and felt very sorry for the poor blokes who were relegated to that outside, otherwise cramped tasting bar.

It is more than obvious that the guys pouring Peju wines enjoy themselves (I saw nary a woman working there the day I visited, but there may be some). While my host was perfectly pleasant and informative, I felt as though I were missing out on a great party as the pourer at the station behind us frequently belted out in song and fanfare. This is obviously a destination winery; while 2,000 of their 30,000 cases appear in restaurants, Peju is otherwise not distributed.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc - Pale, clear straw color. Some hints of clean grass aromas. A bright, citrus entry shows some kiwi and mango with a tangy, pleasing finish. $16.00

2004 Carnival - Unusual French Lombard grape which is not often seen in the Na pa Valley. At 1.25% residual sugar, it was a tad more sweet than I normally care for; honey-like citrus aromas show a sweet entry that was not too cloyingly syrupy with more citrus on the mid-palate. $12.50

2004 Provence, California Table Wine - This wine is just plain bizarre and there's no way around it; a blend of white and red grapes in a way not normally seen: Merlot (red), Cabernet Franc (red), Sarah (red), Colombard (white), and Sauvignon Blanc (white). This actually is a great wine to introduce people to who are moving up from White Zinfandel and want something with a bit more heft to it. There is heightened fruit flavors benefits from being well-chilled. $18.50

2001 Syrah, Napa Valley - Medium weight Syrah with jammy aromas of dark plum and black raspberry. Smooth, buttery sensation on the tongue upon entry. Dry in the mid-palate which ends spicier than anticipated. $32.00

2002 Merlot, Napa Valley - Syrah-like jamminess in the nose with a hint of menthol. Dark berry and chocolate silkiness fills the mouth and blossoms to plump, round flavors. $35.00

2002 Zinfandel, Napa Valley - Surprisingly thin on the nose, mostly cranberry in its redness. Apparently their first attempt at a Zinfandel, so while the base flavors were there, its shows a dry finish and wavering spice qualities. $25.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - 90% Pope Valley and 10% Rutherford. Hints of green bell pepper subside to show warm cherry and cranberry tones. Fruity entry is round and in its display of vanilla and herbs in the mid-palate, dries a bit on the finish, demonstrating a touch of mocha. $38.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Rutherford - Classic Rutherford dust is seen in this elegant wine. Black cherry and anise appear in the nose and the dark spice continues in the mouth entry, filling out with chocolate and vanilla qualities that shows a long finish and dried herbs. $85.00

Peju ~ 8466 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 800-446-7358

Beaulieu Vineyard - 78

Beaulieu Vineyard is one of the few remaining Napa Vallery wineries with history that dates back before Prohibition. In 1900, George de Latour purchased a small estate for his wife, Fernande. George was contracted to produce wine for the church during prohibition and as production amounts grew, so did George's fortune.

An octagonal building sits behind the original estate is the now the tasting room. It is two levels with the tasting bar on the upper floor and more gift items and rare library wines on the lower level. Finding quality library wines is a rarity so walking downstairs just to peruse is highly advisable.

It is slightly surprising that the amazing history of the estate is not more highly promoted; or perhaps it is in a separate building and I just missed seeing it. The upper level of the tasting room does include a few pictures and set above one of the doorways are some lovely antique wine amphoras. 

2002 Gewurztraminer - .8% residual sugar. Classic grapefruit with clean, crisp citrus. Perfumey but surprisingly sweet with a strident, mineral ending. $13.00

2004 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc - Bright and classically easy to drink with citrus and apple flavors. Simple mouthfeel. $13.00

2003 Carneros Chardonnay - Greenish in color, tropical fruit and butter dominate the aromas but give way to some pear. Vanilla couples with the bright fruit on the entry and brightens on the mid-palate. $18.00

2002 Pinot Noir Vin Gris - Salmon in color with .25% residual sugar. Had a difficult time getting past the overt acidity and harshness. $13.00

2003 Carneros Pinot Noir - Medium in color and intensity, mostly raspberry notes with some chewy earthy qualities finished pale. $18.00

2002 Beauzeau - 66% Zinfandel, 13% Charbono, 6% Sangiovese, 6% Tempranillo, 4% Valeguie, 2% Petite Sirah, and 3% "Other." I adored this wine -- Syrah-like in its inkiness, dark spice and dark fruit with hints of berry and aromas that teased with bacon and BBQ. Supple and easy-to-drink with tons of overt fruit. $24.00

2002 Signet Ensemble Red - 71% Syrah, 15% Grenache, and 14% Mourvedre. Another success with inky garnet colors showing dark berry, chocolate, and dried floral qualities. Thick, rich mouthfeel that shows balance and integrity. $25.00

2002 Rutherford Cabernet - Deep garnet tones in color. Aromas of green bell pepper and earthy olive somewhat dismayed. Classic Rutherford appellation qualities of layered mineral, earth, and cassis produced big tannins and that need time to mellow. $25.00

Beaulieu Vineyard ~ 1960 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 800-264-6918

Niebaum-Coppola - 76

My blogging was erratic the past few weeks as I was busy with the Intermediate coursework of the Wine and Spirits Education Trust being taught through Copia. I met some amazing people, both professionals in the industry and wine-devoted amateurs. One special classmate in particular, David Meyer, works at Niebaum-Coppola and invited us all over for a private tasting after we completed our exam last Saturday. I readily accepted the invitation by sheer force of needing to delve further into the mystery of Coppola. Of course I had heard of it and the grandeur that exists, but was it all a movie director's ability to smokescreen?

I had long known that Francis Ford Coppola purchased what could arguably be one of the most historically important pieces of land in the Napa Valley. After all, it was once home to the famed Inglenook Winery which, before being relegated to the auspices of cheap jug wine, was known for exceptional wines that could rival the French.

Francis Ford has done a fabulous thing in restoring the property in that he has gone above and beyond in creating a true palace and museum. For the non-wine drinker, there is not only history of the property and the wine industry, but also an amazing history of the cinema with antique zoetropes, and an accounting of Coppola's own film success with movie memorabilia including one of the original Tucker automobiles. Entering the historic chateau, it is impossible to not be impressed with the grand staircase which greats you and I was told that it is known as the "million-dollar staircase" constructed entirely from joinery (no nails) and was finished with 16 grades of sandpaper and tung oil (no varnish).

The gift area is a tad deceptive as there seems to be three or four -- or was that five? -- of them. I couldn't help but be reminded of Disneyland with the over-the-top, opulent displays mixed with both expensive, hand-crafted items and the silliest of tschotskes. Fortunately for me, I've always had a soft spot in my heart for Disnelyland so I was having fun, buying miniature absinthe glasses...

But before all this glamor and glitz, I came to taste wine and also put aside some misconceptions. I thought I had previously tasted one -- maybe two -- early Coppola bottlings that I found less than stellar, but now I am not so sure and will willingly eat crow.

2003 Director's Reserve Chardonnay - 60% malo which spends 60 months in French oak as well as stainless. Unfortunately, the wine had been set-up before our arrival and was overchilled to be able to discern anything notable. $27.00

2004 Director's Reserve Sauvignon Blanc - 100% stainless steel shows hints of grass and citrus. The mouth-entry produced rich grapefruit which warmed and heightened on the finish. $19.00

Pinot - I didn't write down the exact label, assuming I would get the information on their website, but it apparently does not exist online. I do know it is a Carneros vineyard grown from clone 667 and 777. It shows a clear, ruby color with an intense fruit, berry bouquet. The mouthfeel is soft and balanced with a decisive, mineral finish. $34.00

2002 Estate Zinfandel - David poured this wine a special favor, indicating it is no longer for sale. Named after Francis Ford's maternal grandfather, Edizione Pennino, the label was designed after Edizione's music label. The grapes come from 45-year-old head-pruned vines and shows a wine that is almost purple in color with spicy fruit in the nose. The dark, spicy fruit continued in its flavors with the faintest hints of red bell pepper on the finish. $35.00

2002 Estate Merlot - Hearkening back to their history, David told us that Inglenook was the first to grow Merlot in the valley and the second winery to bottle it. This offering is elegant with blackberries, black raspberries, and black plums mixing with spice to create an enticing apprehension. The flavors mix this dark fruit with hints of dry twigs in an aplomb of elegance. $44.00

2001 Rubicon - Coppola's flagship wine which came about after Francis Ford himself tasted the epiphany of the now infamous '41 Inglenook. This vintage is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. Layered aromas of dark cassis, cocoa, and the classic "Rutherford dust," displays hints of wood and the barest tease of green bell pepper before showing some brighter cherry. The soft entry was well-balanced and elegant, repeating the cocoa tones with more expressive coffee notes which played well with a continuation of the cherry and cassis. At a full 30 months in French oak, the wine could easily be cellared for another twenty years. $100.00

Niebaum-Coppola Estate Vineyards and Winery ~ 1991 St. Helena Highway ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 800-RUBICON

Flora Springs - 62

Flora Springs winery is located on Highway 29 and is almost easy to miss for while most winery tasting rooms on the main drag have large, stand-alone facilities, Flora Springs sits nestled amongst a cluster of buildings that shares a parking lot with Calistoga Roastery (a coffee house) and Dean & Deluca. A vine-covered building might almost be lost, but is well worth looking for!

This is another one of those wineries that I have placed in a number of categories for while the physical tasting room lies in St. Helena appellation, the vineyards for the wines are located in St. Helena, Rutherford, and Oakville appellations.

The tasting room itself is large and inviting with an center-staged tasting bar-in-the-round placed dead center in the room. This makes for lots of comfortable space as well as a generally warm and inviting atmosphere. There are also a number of literary and cinematic allusions which I greatly admire; the Lavender Hill Vineyards for their Pinot was named after the Alec Guinness movie The Lavender Hill Mob, a one-sheet is located on an adjacent wall, and the Toad Hall Cellars Club references the Wind in the Willows, the owner's wife's favorite book (there are a number of toad references around the tasting room as well).

A note about the walls - along with movie posters, they are covered with these amazing caricatures of the family set next to photographs of the person so depicted. Also of note is a wine list far more extensive than my tasting allowed; additional wines include several Pinots, a variety of vineyard-specific Cabernets, a Sangiovese.

2002 Soliloquey - I'm not sure why this wine has a special name. It is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc and maybe it is because it comes from the Sauvignon Musque clone. It shows the classic green apple/grass combination in its bouquet that is perfumey and bright which enters the mouth with a warm, creamy sensation that finishes crisp and engaging. $18.00

2003 Barrel-Fermented Chardonnay - I was surprised to be told this Chardonnay saw no malo for there is a hint of butter and vanilla on the nose. The entry is lively with tropical fruits dominated with pineapple tones that is a touch sweet with balance and body. $22.00

2001 Pinot, Lavender Hill Vineyards - Oxidized.

2000 Poggio Del Papa - 75% Sangiovese, 16% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. An interesting blend that shows the dark, plummy, jammy fruit of the Merlot with cherry aromas and some oak in the beginning. The Sangiovese brings acidity to the forefront, but in an even, pleasing fashion. $30.00

2002 Napa Valley Merlot - A lighter, softer Merlot than I have been drinking lately. Oak and fruit are balanced in the aroma, with neither overpowering the other. Some mineral tones in the mid-palate, it demonstrates a fresh, cherry finish that is easy going down. $24.00

2001 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - 100% Cabernet immediately shows dark, chocolate-covered cherry aromas with hints of cedar and oak. The cherry is coupled with elements of cassis in the mouth with some mineral qualities mid-way. A bit dry on the finish is a light touch. $30.00

2001 Trilogy - 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Malbec. The faintest of green bell pepper under incredibly plummy, dark fruit aromas. Balanced tannins reveals a touch of minerality in the mid-palate but blossoms in a finish that reveals cherry. $60.00

Flora Springs ~ 677 S. St. Helena Highway ~ St. Helena ~ 800-913-1118

ZD Wines - 47

ZD is one of those places that I drive by twice a day on my way to work. I've always admired their gold-gilt sign which is a good thing because the building structure is slightly sunken below the roadway and driving by, most of what you see are rooftops. I had no idea that ZD was the brainchild of two aerospace engineers, Norman de Leuze and Gino Zepponi back in the late 1960s. The de Leuze family runs the show at this point and I was dutifully impressed - at the reception, the facilities, and the wine.

The tasting room is of moderate size, neither too large nor too small, and quite comfortable. Some art is seen scattered about, but not overtly so. A fireplace offers warmth and a hominess in the corner. The pouring staff are tremendously helpful and exuberant. They are obviously here because they like what they are doing and they like the wine they are pouring -- something that is surprisingly rare in the industry.

2002 Chardonnay, California - I love a non-ML chard and this one definitely peaked my interest. This wine did see ten months of American oak, which is ever so slightly discernable. Pale in the glass with light aromas of apricot and a hint of floral. Engaging fruit entry that zings into a balanced, even acidic mouth feel. Hint of toast on the finish. $30.00

2002 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley - Eighteen months in American oak, this offering definitely produced complex creamy tones. The apricot aromas seemed more ripe than the previous wine and expanded in the mouth adding to the pear and vanilla qualities. Pleasant, punctuated acidic finish. $48.00

2002 Rosa Lee Pinot Noir, Carneros - Very bright in color and in aromas. Distinctive wild strawberry bouquet complements the strawberry mouth-entry which blossoms into slightly darker, cherry tones. Very engaging with a bit of a smoky, mineral finish. $20.00

2002 Pinot Noir, Carneros - Ten months in French oak give this wine an incredibly rich, dark nose of elegant, jammy berries. Integrated fruit flavors in the mouth produce a bright mid-palate that hints at vanilla but teases only long enough to ultimately produce a mineral finish. $30.00

1998 Pinot Noir, Carneros, Library Selection - Bricky, orange in color, this lovely wine is more Burgundian in its offering with earthy strawberry aromas that give way to a hint of mint. Very balanced, bright flavors with some floral and lavendar flavors and a distinctly cinnamon finish. $40.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Exuberantly dark purple in color, this wine explodes with plummy cherry tones that suggest a little earthiness. Deep and balanced, the brighter entry transforms into muskier tones of tobacco and vanilla but finish with floral qualities. A full metamorphosis in one sip. $42.00

2001 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - Three years in American oak, this is an intensely elegant wine. The aromas of earth, berry, and tobacco just play with you before the soft, even entry explodes with fruit and dark spices that whisper of black licorice. Immensely concentrated, the long, long finish never gives up. $115.00

ZD Wines ~ 8383 Silverado Trail ~ Napa ~ CA ~ 94558 ~ 800-487-7757

Piña - 45

Piña has been listed in two appellations, Rutherford and Howell Mountain. This is because their physical location, right on the Silverado Trail, is located within the Rutherford appellation. However, the only wine that is currently produced is from Howell Mountain vineyards. But I should backtrack a bit...

Here in the Napa Valley, everybody knows the Piña name. Technically, there are four Piñas -- all brothers: Davie, Ranndy, Larry, and John. Their great-grandfather, Blueford Stice, came from Missouri to the Napa Valley as the lead in a wagon train in 1856. Blueford's son, Lafayette, farming and learning the local industry, became winemaker at the now historically famous Inglenook. Lafayette's daughter Mabel, along with her husband Charles Glos, homesteaded a Howell Mountain ranch. The Piña name comes from paternal grandparents who, after emigrating from Spain via Hawaii, ultimately settled on the Rutherford property where you will now find their progeny.

With the legacy inherited, one would think the brothers would immediately set out in the wine business as producers. But that was not the case for in 1979, they started as vineyard managers, establishing a well-earned reputation for sustainable farming. It was only in 1996 that they finally purchased the "Buckeye" ranch on Howell Mountain, literally in view of the their grandparents' original farmstead. 2000 was the first year a Howell Mountain Piña Cabernet Sauvignon was produced. Already looking to the future, vineyards in Oakville have already been planted and a section of the property in Rutherford is already in the planning stages for planting.

Piña is an appointment-only winery, but if you time it right, you might be able to stop by during one of their famous open-house paella parties. There I was able to meet all the brothers and winemaker, Ted Osborne. Davie poured from the latest release, the 2001, and Ted pulled some barrel samples from the 2002 offerings. Keep an eye on this winery -- it is exceedingly rare to find a Howell Mountain Cabernet so inexpensively priced. This is indeed a bargain and I project will soon be known:

2001 Piña Howell Mountain Cabernet - Classic Howell Mountain characteristics of a soft, velvety entry. Dark, elegant spices of nutmeg and clove tease the nose and complex, concentrated roasted rig and dark berry fill the mouth. Mild acidicty smooths out for a tantalizing finish. $48.00

2002 Piña Howell Mountain Cabernet - From the barrel, already accessible with warm, bright fruit presenting on the nose. More of the dark, opulent berries and spice with an elegant, heavenly, heady finish. Not yet priced.

Piña ~ 8060 Silverado Trail ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94305 ~ 707-944-2229

Mumm Napa - 37

Mumm Napa is one of the famous sparkling producers whose business has taken them from the chateaux of France to the vineyards of Napa. Having a century-and-a-half of experience producing Champagne in France, it should be no surprise that their New World offering is just as exceptional, but also more cutting edge, moving beyond the expected Blanc de Blanc and Blanc de Noir offerings.

The building is large and expansive as one enters through their retail gift area. Upon entry, I did hear an exiting conversation exclaim what a great store Mumm had ("this is one of the best wine stores I've been to"). Well, it was pretty and there were darn nice items to be had, but I tend to move beyond most retail rooms except when interior decoration or specific art is concerned. I just glanced at the pretties which I know I can't afford.

Through the retail store is a service area which is unlike most tasting rooms in the wine country. Like several other sparkling producers, there is an added level of sophistication with full table-side service. So on a stunningly beautiful day, I headed out for a bit of bubbly. Being that sparkling wine is all Mumm makes (versus some of the other  producers who also produce still wine), there are a number of different options; a comparison of their recent premium DVX vintages, a Reserve-only tasting, a Pinot-based only tasting, their standard Mumm offerings, a category indicated as Nectar of the Gods which included their Demi Sac, and a non-alcoholic offering for designated drivers.

I opted for their strictly Pinot offering, having tasted their Blanc de Blanc and DVX offerings in the past. I will also give tremendous credit for a statement on their menu which I had never seen before at any other winery: "As a member of the Napa County Responsibility Coalition, there is a two-flute limit." Very impressive amount of responsibility considering the number of DUIs which occur in the valley. All that, and the Pinot-based sparklings were a lovely surprise:

NV Blanc de Noirs - 85% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. Salmon rose in color. Ripe raspberry and strawberry enter crisply into the mouth and quickly warms to a creamy mid-palate. A bright and fruity finish. $18

NV Sparkling Pinot - 100% Pinot Noir. Rich ruby color anticipates the plum and black cherry entry. After the effervescence subsides, a balanced, layered finish includes a hint of clove and cinnamon.

NV Cuvee M Red - 96% Pinot Noir, 4% Syrah. This was a huge surprise. Complex dark cranberry and blackberry enters with exciting jammy notes. A cherry mid-palate gives way to an intriguing spicy finish.

Mumm Napa ~ 8445 Silverado Trail ~ Rutherford ~ CA ~ 94573 ~ 707-967-7700

St. Supery - 35

I have long been intrigued by St. Supery because of an extremely intriguing sculpture which lies by their roadside sign; a 20 or 30 foot tall, red-painted industrial drill bit which rises phallicly into the air. I regret that it is not in the photograph, but seen from the road, it beckons the visitor and hints at whimsy that may lie within.

There is a dichotomy when approaching the buildings of St. Supery. The long driveway towards the parking lot puts one in direct path of white Victorian cottage. Is this the tasting room? Apparently not. For immediately in line with the parking area lies a sage green modern complex which can only be described as looking like an industrial compound where the tasting area and more delights await.

The tasting room lies just off a reception area and is quite the standard offering of tasting bar, retail bits, and much jocularity. A rousing group of folks keeps the energy high and occasionally, difficult to get a pour. That is an extremely minor complaint for the pouring staff range from youngsters not able to offer you a pour (but keeps the clean glasses well stocked) to octogenarians with a wealth of information and generosity.

While all this is well and good what I found utterly delightful lies upstairs... Lying the entire length of the building on the upper level is a self-guided tour which includes an extensive gallery space. Bumping into curator and Visitor Center Manager, Chris Parker, I learned that the exhibits revolve often which encourages me to visit often. The current exhibit included paintings, sculptures, crafts, and modern works from local artists. The artist in me started itching again...

2003 Sauvignon Blanc - Stunning pink grapefruit bouquet subsides to reveal aromas of peach and a hint of orange. Even mouth feel with a grassy mid-palate. No harsh acidity which the initial grapefruit suggested. Long, lush grapefruit finish. $18.00

2002 Virtu White Meritage - Flowery clean bouquet. Very bright and easy-drinking blend of 47% Sauvignon Blanc and 53% Semillion. Significant pear and peach tones with a creamy finish hinting at taffy. $25.00

2002 Chardonnay - 47% ML. Considerable, even fruit offering of peach and pear with a hint of orange blossom. Fruity entry into the mouth produces butterscotch and spice. $18.50

2001 Merlot - Cherry and earthy notes penetrate the nose. Spicy core in the mid-palate with a dry finish that includes dark berries and a touch of pepper. $24.00

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon - Red bell pepper nose with layers of dark fruit underneath. Flavors include brambleberry and licorice with a heightened tannic finish. $28.00

2000 Elu Red Meritage - 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. A ful